The new HBO series "How to make it in America" follows twentysomething New Yorkers hustling to make it in the fashion business. The city and the garment district serve as a sexy backdrop for the show but the reality is the garment district is less vibrant than ever. Today there's about 9,000 manufacturing jobs in New York down from about 16,000 in 1995. The garment industry in America has been suffering for years. The effort to save the district is also an effort to save the made in America legacy. There's a new initiative in New York to help emerging designers grow their businesses that's called the Fashion Business Incubator.  The initiative gives a group of designers selected by the CFDA mentoring and below-market rent in the initiative's building on 38th street starting at $1,500. The designers rent glass front showrooms that they use to create, sell or promote their collections. The location hopefully makes it convenient for retailers to visit them. It's a thoughtful way of getting designers in the garment district and helping the area that badly needs a lifeline. 

It's this spirit that we're looking at and inspired by as we check out a fresh crop of young, cool designers who are trying to keep it local and some established brands that are still producing in the US. This month's trendletter celebrates design made in America.

The Row is Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen's high-end minimalist line that's gained a following with fashionistas and the respect of fashion insiders.  The collection is made in New York so that the team can keep in eye on production.  The twins are doing something more than just looking out for their bottom line in keeping production local. They're helping to sustain what's left of the NY Garment District. The Row is also one of the many designers that are working hard to build awareness and save the garment center from becoming a commercial zone.

Jamie Johnson, the documentarian and socialite,  is adding designer to his resume.  He's been working on a line of tailored men's pieces focused primarly on outerwear. The line called Black Sweater includes a tuxedo and of course, a black sweater.  The line is made entirely in NY by old-world tailors who have the skills and know how of true craftsmanship.  Jamie is also working on another documentary about fashion and the elite. 

The young brand  CXXVI (126) is the work of the talented designers Matt Gorton and Jon Contino. The designers became known in the fashion world through their design studio OneTwentySix.  Last year, they applied their aesthetic towards their own line of  t-shirts with CXXVI. The Spring 2010 collection expands the line into hoodies, beanies, duffle bags and even an iPod case. We not only love that the fabrics are sourced in the US and production is done in NY but we love the whole vibe of the line.  The Spring collection's New England nautical mood is part dock worker, part downtown hipster and completely cool. 

Chiller is a technical outerwear, equipment and snowboarding accessories company that's a 100% made in the USA.  The company started by Peter Sieper and Steven Kimura is based in Massachusetts who started the line as a counter to all the staturated hues and loud prints that dominate snowboarding at the moment. They feel it's a time to go back to the basics.  So, they use locally sourced fabrics, some of which have been repurposed for their collection including deadstock military blankets.  The colors and prints have a retro seventies feel to them.  Their wool plaids are all by Woolrich.

Mathieu Brown, founder of ML.Brown and Co specializes in hand made leather accessories.  Mathieu started the line because he felt that so many products he found in the marketplace lacked quality.   We admire his meticulous attention to detail.  He dips and dyes the leather at his studio in Brooklyn and makes each piece by hand and with  love.  All the hardware on the belts is aged brass.   Last year, he collaborated with Outlier on a leather braided keychain that's become a hit for the brand. 

Russell has been making footwear in Wisconsin since 1898 dedicated to creating custom fitted and made to measure mocassins for hunters and outdoorsmen.  The company is one of the heritage brands along with Alden and Quoddy that are collaborating with JCrew on men's footwear.   As hipsters embrace the boat shoe and the moccassin.  We see the American craftsman getting their shine with a new generation.  As the saying goes, it's hip to be square.

We love Temple Bags with their vintage characteristics and cool humble beginnings.  The founder of Temple is Steve Opperman who made bags out of his home for his wife's family as gifts after losing a job. He didn't know what he was going to do but he knew how to sew.  He made his first bag out of a stained, smelly ripped piece of canvas and turned it into something quite beautiful.  Temple was build as demand for his bags grew.  He now sources his material locally from 1940s dead-stock using anything from old duffel bags to military blankets.   He designs and sews all the first samples and then has a factory in downtown LA produce them. Steve tells us that what inspires him to stay local more than anything are the relationships he has built with those he's met along the way from the deadstock wholesalers to the seamstress' who sews his bags.  We've got our eye on the recent Temple collaboration with Uncrate for a leather iPad case.   

Our Canadian consultant Sonja recently saw Rapp eyewear at the Preloved show during Toronto fashion week.  As the geek chick look continues to be important, Rapp's secretary specs are the perfect accessory to complement the look.  What's even cooler is that Rapp frames are designed and manufatured in Toronto. The frames are machined in-house then assembled and framed by hand.  As Julia Rapp told us, one of the benefits of producing locally is being able to get feedback and make adjustments quickly.

Nili Lotan is one of our favorite spaces in Tribeca.  The store includes a small atelier that shoppers can see through glass inserts in the floor.  The construction of the space allows the shopper to feel an intimate connection to the garment because you're able to see the hands that are making it.   Lotan not only tries to make as much of the collection locally (knits are produced overseas) but works at sourcing fabrics here too.  

The Grown and Sewn is a space that's an American Art and Crafts collaborative.  The creator of the space Rob Magness told us that the clothing and art will be through May.  The Art is by Purvis Young and the Craft is Grown and Sewn, an All American handmade collection of pants, bags, belts and t-shirts.  The key product is a pant they call the Kax, a hybrid of the weight, feel and look of a khaki with the coolness of a jean.  The Kax is available in three different styles including one inspired by the original military khaki and a five pocket-model.  

Deitch Projects final project is Shepard Fairey's May Day exhibit beginning May 1st.  Fairey's piece interprets the different meanings of May day from a celebration of spring to it being the International Worker day.  May Day is also the emergency call used by pilots, policemen and firefighters.  This week Fairey also put up a mural on the corner of Bowery and Houston.  The mural will be up for six months.  

Tom Shannon is known for injecting his knowlege of physics into his art creating works that are abstract and scientific. His New Nature series is created using a large pendulum he designed that holds paints that are released onto a canvas forming concentric circles that are all scientifically measured out by Shannon.   These scientifically based works are able to invoke a strong emotional response that keep us wanting more. 

Photographers Yves Marchand and Romain Meffre highlight what has been forgotten from the once crowded and popular "Motor City". Detroit used to be home of the industrial revolution, yet today it's left with many abandoned buildings.  Marchand and Meffre capture the beauty and the sadness of what remains of Detroit's decaying monuments. Click here to check out more images. 

 The latest teen darling is Olivia Bee, a 15 year-old photographer whose photo diary on flikr has gotten the attention of bloggers, fashion magazines and brands.  Her photographs of her and her friends are captivating through the colors she shows, the way she frames her subjects and her ability to capture a moment in time.  There's an ephemeral aspect to her work that conveys the innocence and angst of the teen spirit.   Her photographs have caught the eye of brands like Converse,  magazines like Seventeen and she's been featured in American Photo as a flickr superstar. 

  There's something cryptic yet poetic about Mitchell Hoffmaster's work that our consultant Jerome Lamaar appreciates. The play on shadow and light and the way his free hand brushstrokes depict subtle movements like wind blowing.  It's this dark ominous aesthetic with the layers of meaning and imagery that's discovered that makes this work haunting. 

We were inspired by the  New Balance's video that takes you on a tour of their Skowhegan, Maine factory where you get a look at a shoe making town that's got pride in their work and their people. Check out the homegrown spirit here.

Hudson Valley Seed Library  created by Ken Green and Doug Muller is a project that's about creating an accessible and affordable source of regional seeds.  The seeds are chosen because they are known to grow well in Hudson Valley soil.  The library also offers seed packs with sleeve art made by local artists. The duo also run a Seed library farm where the collaborate with organic and naturally certified farmers in the area to grow more varieties.  Their goal is to have a100% New York grown seed in their farm by 2014.  They have a membership program that allows backyard farmers to contribute too.     

We can't wait to check out Roadside America by John Margolies.  The book takes you through Margolies' 30 year  roadtrip through America documenting roadside advertisements, fantasy structures and those unique aspects of Americana that are slowly fading.   

This book edited by Spike Lee and Aaron Perry-Zucker looks at the grassroot spirit through the posters that were made for President Obama's campaign.  The posters are chosen from the Designforobama.org site that has become a community of grassroots artists and activists who rate and discuss the posters created in support of Obama.

In Athens, Georgia is  Farm 225, a restaurant that serves local, seasonal food for dinner nightly.  What makes Farm 255 unique is that the Chef preparing your meal is also out working the farm earlier in the day. The owns and operate a few produce and livestock organic farms including one that's just a few miles from the restaurant.

We were among the folks who would head for breakfast at Egg when the spot operated only morning from Sparky's hot dog emporium in Williamsburg.  Now Egg has taken over Sparky's and they offer lunch too.  The restaurant which offers food cooked with local produce also has a farm upstate that they bought three years ago. They still rely on other farmers upstate for their produce but they're experimenting with growing their own and they document it here.

Trellis is another farm to table resturant located in Kirkland, Washington. Their acclaimed executive chef, Brian Scheehser owns a 5 acre garden of various herbs and produce that he uses in the restaurant but that also inspire his menu. The restaurant's signature dish is the "Two hour Salad" that's made with ingredients harvested within two hours of being served.   

We first spotted the Freelance Whales on the corner of Bedford ave. and 7th singing for a crowd of 5. Their folky and friendly sound was contagious, the crowd soon grew larger. They incorporate accordions that give a mystic carnival sound that's contrasted with bluegrass banjo strums. Their album "Weathervanes" was released on April 13th.

We've been following the Freak Folk music scene and drawn to the likes of Devandra Banhart. His soft vocals and soothing melodies is perfect for a lazy Sunday afternoon. Devendra has become of the more mainstream members of the movement especially after having dated Natalie Portman who's hysterical in his video Carmensita . His album What Will Be was released in 2009.  You can find the video of Baby from the record here.